Elegant, fresh & juicy, this 2023 vintage surprises us with its bright fruit, silky tannins and freshness. It makes me think of a prima ballerina, classy & precise. We’re much more in the finesse than the density and power we had in 2022. For me, 2023 embodies the new Bordeaux style, a Bordeaux that expresses much more its terroir, its typicality, a Bordeaux with a charming immediacy, a Bordeaux that we love.
Critics seem to be on the same page – to date James Suckling, William Kelley for the Wine Advocate and Robert Parker have all released some great scores. Among the best scores, there are Cheval Blanc (WA 98-100, JS 98-99), La Conseillante (WA 98-100, JS 97-98), Pichon Comtesse (WA 97-99), Lafite (WA 97-99), Canon (WA 96-98, JS 99-100), Pontet-Canet (WA 96-98), Figeac (WA 96-98) …
2023 Keywords: Elegance | Ripeness | Aromatic Brightness | Freshness | Complexity| Typicality
A « Tropical Vintage » Olivier Bernard
To better understand the vintage profile, let’s dive into climatology. After a flowering in exceptional conditions came a « tropical » period with regular rain (4th most rainy vintage in 25 years with 959 mm of rainfalls) ang high temperatures (hottest vintage on average after 2022). It was thus easy for the mildew to spread, but much less than the press claimed so. The lands close by the estuary, in slope or well-ventilated have been completely spared. The mildew mainly struck the merlots which, consequently, are less present in the blends. Pessac et Margaux are the 2 appellations that have been hurt. The other communal appellations have filled up with great yields that put a smile on winemakers’ face!
Going back to climate influence, another point to note is the lack of sunshine throughout summer, which enabled to preserve acidity levels and limit alcoholic degrees. Yet it’s the heatwaves of late August and early September prolonged by an Indian summer that have transformed the vintage, by ripening the grapes and concentrating the aromas.
The harvest happened sequentially and in full serenity. For some estates, these have been the longest harvest they’ve ever had. Each grape variety and parcel could be picked fully ripe, in due time. Nowadays winemakers pick up the red grapes at phenolic /aromatic ripeness instead of the alcoholic one. This with the help of climate warming gives wine that can be enjoyed much younger.
The technical teams have then had all the time needed for each vat and therefore managed to have gentle extractions.
« General Victory of Ripeness » Derenoncourt Consulting
When tasting, it is precisely ripeness that strikes – wines are ripe, the fruity and floral aromas explode in the mouth, supported by silky tannins and balanced acidity.
On the left bank, there are beautiful cabernets “that enable to make wines with huge personality and race” (Julien Viaud, Laboratoire Rolland).
Among the team highlights, let’s quote Pontet Canet, Léoville las cases, Brane Cantenac, Smith haut Lafitte, Haut-Bailly, Talbot et Grand Puy Ducasse.
On the right bank, we tasted some wonderful cabernets francs which bring length freshness and complexity to the blends. I have been absolutely impressed by Pomerol, which features very profound and complex wines with velvety tannins and this typical elegance of the vintage.
Among the team highlights, let’s quote Cheval blanc, La Conseillante, Figeac, Trolong Mondot, Ausone, Canon et château de Ferrand.
2023, A Great White Vintage and a Fantastic Liquorous Vintage
“The sauvignon blanc wines possess this remarkable aromatic brightness, a great freshness but also lots of flesh. The sémillons are also very successful on the best terroirs, they bring an addition of softness and very elegant white flowers aromas to the blends”* I still have in mind the Domaine de Chevalier blanc… mesmerising !
The team also really liked Smith haut Lafitte blanc, Guiraud, Coutet and loved Lespault Martillac.
In 2023, the winemakers have managed to truly express their terroirs, I really like Aymeric de Gironde words to talk about Château Troplong Mondot 23 “A wine of place”.
To conclude, I will take up the ISVV* summary «red wines with varied profiles some great success, some bright dry white wines and admirable liquorous wines, combining power and freshness »
Alexandra Adamian
**L’Institut des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin de l’Université de Bordeaux
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